By Marc Demeule, Brewpublic’s Quebecer Beer Trekker

Crossing the border for another beer adventure can lead to unexpected discoveries.  Our first stop was at Burlington’s American Flatbread where we enjoyed their famous pizzas and sampled a few Vermont beers from Zero Gravity Brewery.  I also had a Cuvée de Jacobin that made me remember good times at the Casacade Brewery (but it didn’t equal all the extreme sour ales I had in Portland)…  We gather with other beer geeks for few trades.  Charlevoix Lupuplus, Dieu du Ciel!, Saint-Ambroise Barleywine, Corne de Brume are some of our products that can be easily traded to US geeks.  At least, they don’t have access to those ones!

We reached Winooski Beverage Warehouse for a quick beer shopping session.  The selection always gets better here.   They have all the classics US craft breweries, but also a good selection of Belgian products.  I was pleased to find some Mikkeller Single Hop Amarillo IPA and Tomahawk IPA.  Now I’m just waiting for a special event to open them.  Because we have an environmental conscience, we brought some of our empty bottles and were surprised to discover a recycling center behind the beer store.  I saw three guy sorting all the bottles and cans.  It was the first time I saw such an organization in a beer store.  Is it the same everywhere?   Maybe they recycle for other places because you can’t generate enough empty bottles from this one spot to keep three dudes employed.

Have you ever hear about the Trapp family?  The land they own in Stowe, Vermont is absolutely unique.  But what interested us is that they recently (end of January) opened a brewery.  “High in the Green Mountains, low in a labyrinthine basement beneath the Austrian Tea Room at the Trapp Family Lodge, Allen Van Anda toils away like a crafty alchemist, pouring water and yeast into shining stainless-steel vats and hoping the combination turns into something close to heavenly”.

Our contact arranged a meeting with Allen, the brewer.  He leads this brand new brewery which specializes in German-style beers.  We had the chance to taste three beers, a Helles, a Bourbon Barrel Bock, and a Dunkel.  These beers help to increase the beer standards in Vermont.  For now, distribution is in its early stages, but they will be soon become more widely distributed. And, if you happen to see one of those kegs in your preferred bar, ask for a pint.  We will have to make a detour by Stowe when we’ll come back to Vermont.

A last stop at Waterbury to the Alchemist Pub and Brewery is necessary.  I’ve talked about this place a few times, so what was new on the taps?  A Heady Topper Double IPA.  Simply malty enough to support a blast of pine and citrus (claiming 120 IBU, we could expect it). I took a taster tray, just to be sure that this double IPA was my preference and I was right, it was.  Please, don’t change the recipe.

At the Canadian border, we were been caught.  No alcohol importation for a day trip.  So I had to pay 10$ of taxes for a case of 50$.  It is nothing when you figure the trip we had.  Thanks to Émilie, our designated driver.  We owe you one.

marc@brewpublic.com

Posted under beer reviews

A night in Portland, Maine definitely calls for a stop at a Novare Res Bier Café. Named one of Imbibe Magazine’s best 100 places to drink beer in America in 2008 it is not difficult to see why. Located in the Old Port District of downtown near Castro Bay, Novare is situated in the lower story of a rustic dimly lit brick building. Featuring 25 draught beers, two beer engines, and offering more than 300 bottle brews, it is easily one of Maine’s top beer destinations.

Upon our visit Novare Res  offered  a flight of Mikkeller’s single hop series beers on tap that we couldn’t pass up. Cascade, Amarillo, and Warrior varietals served in tidy little stem glasses provided a nice contrast of the three Northwest hops side by side. Mikkeller Cascade poured a burnt orange hue and a thin white head with a chewy fruity nose. This dual purpose hop exuded big sticky and bitter character perfect for both a malt counterbalance and magnificent floral aromatics. The Warrior IPA shined a burnished ruby-orange color with a thick frothy white head. In addition, resinous pininess dominated the nose and lingered into the flavor that complemented a lingering caramel and esterous body. The Amarillo IPA also held a shiny orange body with a similar thick white top. Great bitter hops and sweet malts play worked with a prominently astringent mouthfeel. The fruity esters of this beer were relatively subdued in contrast to the Warrior. This serves as a wonderful opportunity to educate the palate while enjoying some of the best hoppy beers on the planet.

Also pouring at Novare Res was Haverhill Brewing’s Ascension Ale, a Belgian-style American IPA hybrid. Featuring Pilsener malt, Saaz hops, and a boatload of zestiness, this 7.3% ABV brew did a nice job of melding grassy hops in an effervescent body.

There’s a lot of great beer to enjoy at Novare Res, but  it’s an easy place to miss. The entrance is in a tucked away alley just off the beaten cobblestone path. If you find yourself in Southern Maine, it’s a fantastic mellow environment to unwind at the end of the day and lose yourself in vast Belgian and regional offerings.

Coming up on April 27, Res Novare will feature eight taps of Scotland’s BrewDog beers, one on cask, and a representative from the brewery will be on hand.

Posted under beer reviews, places to drink beer

A little while back we heard about yet another Portland brewery about to open its beers to the public. The brewery I am referring to is Mt. Tabor Brewing. Fittingly, MTB got its start on the eastern hillside of the statuesque Southeast PDX butte. Founded by friends and Oregon natives Brian Maher and Eric Surface, MTB treated us to sneak peak of some of their delicious forthcoming brews.

The brewery originally was set up to be located in a partitioned garage work space beside Maher’s home. According to Maher, the Oregon Liquor Control Commission (OLCC) was a breeze to work with and fully approved the endeavor. The Tobacco and Alcohol Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), a division of the U.S. Treasury was a different story. After several modifications that costed precious time and resources, Mt. Tabor moved their operations to the Montavilla Neighborhood at 78th Avenue and SE Stark Street. Here, in a TTB approved converted storage space, Maher and Surface hope to began production for their nanobrewery sometime in March 2010.

Maher says that the operation is still in “phase one” and views “phase two” as the stage when the brewery can move into a bigger space. He looks forward to “phase three” when Mt. Tabor will be a certified brewpub. Right now in the first phase, MTB has the ability to produce up to two-barrel batches and are shooting for the second phase to allow for something in the ballpark of ten-barrel batches. Despite the trials and tribulation many small breweries face, the two friends are quite optimistic. “The reason we got into this in the first place is to do what we love.” says Maher. “Even if we never get out of phase one, we can likely break even five years from now.” Like other nanobreweries in a similar situation, Maher and Surface maintain non-brewing day jobs that allow for weekend brewing sessions. They have been inspired and encouraged by established area breweries and judging from my first impression of their ales, success should not be hard to obtain. “We’re lucky. We’ve been treated so nicely by different breweries like H.U.B., Laurelwood, and Lucky Lab that it’s hard to pinpoint one particular source of influence of inspiration” says Surface. “We just brew the type of beers we like to drink and keep in mind what Joe Blow likes as well.”

Maher and Surface both have family associated with brewing. Maher’s father was a homebrewer in the ’80s and ’90s and Surface’s dad made wine. Says Maher “I didn’t know much at the time my father was brewing, but when I graduated from college he gave me a brewing set up. I didn’t touch it for a while, but at a point I got really into it.” Surface says  “I started brewing five-gallons at a time in the old school bucket system. We’ve come a long way since then.”

So what exactly are the roles or duties of these two gentlemen? Maher proclaims he is the “owner/beer taster” and Surface says he is the “brewer/beer pimp.” Fair enough. Both are self taught brewers who admit, like many others, to learning early on from the writings of Dr. Charlie Papazian. Further, they also credit a portion of their knowledge and growth to the Oregon Brew Crew and the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP). “We loosely follow BJCP guidelines for the beers we make,” says Maher “but we try to push the limits.”

So what do the Mt. Tabor fellows brew?

My friend Ezra and I arrived at Maher’s home, where a spectacular view of Mount Hood to the east loomed over the horizon as the sun was about to set. Inside, we were greeted with three pale ales. the first was a brightly hopped, bitter using Sarache Ace, piquant Japanese hop, the second was vibrantly hopped Amarillos and the third was a lagered rendition of the second. All three were delicious, crisp, and citusy with a nice carbonation level and technically unflawed.

Following the trifecta of pale ales was a dynamic porter dubbed Qwest Porter. Dry-hopped with Cascades, this porter was uniquely scented with a verdantly leafy sapor. A clean 6.3% ABV brew with hints of chocolate bitterness, and a rich chewy mouthfeel and lush, profuse finish. I honestly have to say this is one of the best Porters I’ve had in a while. These guys knocked it out of the park with this one!

Remaining on the dark path, our next pour was Mount Tabor’s Little Bull Stout. A smaller interpretation of their Siberian Bull Russian Imperial Stout, Little Bull formed a well-retained gray-tan head you’d equate with professionalism. Again, the adoration for hops was omnipotent. Lots of bittering hops danced on the tongue to complement a leading cast of hearty dark malts. 5.5% ABV, this stout can hold its own with any in town, and when it comes to the finish, a sharp yet ornate amalgumation of hoppiness and roastiness teamed up eloquently. After we met Little Bull, we were introduced to the Siberian Bull. This 8.5% ABV heavyweight is named for fictional character Ivan Drago. Known as the “Siberian Bull,” Drago is the antagonistic Russian boxer in Rocky IV. Prominent alcohol notes rise from the nose as the Bull warms up in the rink. Employing the touch of candied sugar, there is also a mild underlying earthiness, almost smokiness, in this brew alongside several rows of dark roasted malt complexity. This warming, beer offers a roundhouse of flavor with each sip that says “I must break you.”

Other recipes that Mt. Tabor’s brewers have been tooling with include a Märzen and Belgian Blonde Ale. The Märzen beer was sampled from a bottle and consisted of creamy vienna malts poise a light brown-amber translucent body with a thick off-white head. Not my favorite of the beers, but true to style nonetheless. The Belgian Blonde, labeled Sister of Streetfighter was a snappy, yeast-driven golden beer akin to a Belgian trippel. Not my favorite of the lot, but definitely worth a few glasses.

Maher and Surface also plan on featuring their very hoppy Asylum Street India Pale Ale, a reference to Portland’s Hawthorne Boulevard,  and a Tabor Special Bitter as a part of their readily available line-up of brews. These beers were fermenting and not available to sample upon my visit.

I very much look forward to enjoying future offerings from Mt. Tabor Brewing, and wish them all the best in their undertaking. When available, make sure to try them and support your local brewery.

Visit Mt. Tabor Brewing’s Facebook page

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Posted under Oregon beer, beer releases

On Tuesday night Barley Brown’s Brewpub of Baker City, Oregon made a rare appearance in Portland at a meet the brewer event at Belmont Station. Brewer Shawn Kelso and owner Tyler Brown were on hand to share some of their specialty brews from their four-barrel nanobrewery including a two year vertical of the Sled Wreck Winter Ale, an Imperial IPA, and an Imperial uber-hopped Cascadian Dark Ale. Following a successful trip to the Great American Beer Fest that landed Oregon’s Far Eastern pub two medals, the brewery has been making more of a presence in the Rose City. BB’s will also be participating in the forthcoming Holiday Ale Fest during the first weekend in December. Brewpublic was fortunate to sample the five brews available at the Belmont Station event and conduct a brief interview with Shawn Kelso whose passion for his craft and people is far from abstruse.

Two different versions of the Sled Wreck–an ’08 and an ’09. The ’08 has a little bit of American oak character and some bourbon notes. How did this beer change?

Shawn Kelso: They’re basically the same recipe. On the ’08 I usually take a barrel or two…actually I should say a keg or two…and I have a neighbor with a whiskey barrel. Instead of putting the beer in the barrel, I put the barrel in the beer. In this case (the ’08), I used Wild Turkey and soaked some American oak chips, stick it in a keg of beer, and let it sit for a year. What we’re getting is some nice vanilla notes…definitely woody. It’s just a nice overall beer.

Now, we’ve got the Barley Brown’s Chaos Ale on tap. It’s a cool 11% Cascadian Dark Ale (That’s a black IPA for those who aren’t familiar). Where did this one come from and how the hell does something this magnificent and complex come out of Baker City?

SK: (Laughs) We’ve been brewing a Cascadian Dark Ale, or Black IPA, since ’04. Our (regular) Cascadian Dark Ale is called Turmoil. That one  is usually between 7.8-8% alcohol…with huge hops. We thought “What the hell?” a few years ago and decided to brew a double version. Being that you’re in Oregon, you always want to push the envelope. So we brewed a double version of this black ale and came up with Chaos. This year I stepped it up a little more and threw in just huge amounts of Columbus and Amarillos (hops) and a hell of a lot of grain and came up with 11% (ABV). It’s a huge beer; very nice and unique.

Before I bust your chops over ingredients, I have to about a few other beers on tap this evening. Barley Brown’s Cherrywood Smoked Ale is probably one of the most unqual and perturbing beers I’ve had. Ultimately, it’s distinctly smoked beyond belief with a deep, earthy cherried flavor. What went into making this beer?

SK: It’s a play on our Whiskey Malt Ale which is a staple we’ve had forever at Barley Brown’s. It’s a nice amber, slightly smoked, nice sweet character, big malt, no hops basically. I should say it has a nice balance. In this case, I heard Briess (Malt & Ingredient Company) made of cherry-smoked malt and I thought “What the hell.” So, always trying to push the envelope, I doubled the amount of smoke I normally put in the beer and came up with just a huge frickin’ bonfire…or should I say one that’s been put out. Extremely smokey and definitely for the faint of heart.

Tonight we also have access to a cask WTF IPA described as a Northwest-styled IPA with Columbus and Amarillo hops at about 7.5% ABV and dry-hopped with Amarillo as well.

SK: Normally our IPA is called WFO IPA but here I’ve brewed the WTF, Winter Time Fun (laughs)…Yeah right. Normally in the winter I brew the Turmoil and the summer I brew the WFO (Wide Fuckin’ Open). I’ve been getting harrass lately about not having an IPA so I thought “What the fuck, let’s brew an IPA!”  And I just loaded it up with Columbus, Amarillo, a little Bomlander, some Two-Row, and came up with a really nice West Coast IPA.

This was a good year for hops in the Pacific Northwest, and Barley Brown’s is obviously no exception to this. You are off the chain with your monstrous ingredients…quite so for a little Four-barrel brewery especially! Are you guys going to step it up and start doing some barrel-aged brews?

SK: I know we’re always going to load our beers up with hops. I’d like to do more with malt. I just brewed an old ale that’s all Weyerman Munich Two-base that I put down a minimum of six months but more than likely a year. I think I’m going to call it Old Grumbler Olde Ale and we’ll see how that goes. But as far as barrel aging, I just need more space. Tyler Brown, owner of Barley Brown’s need to step up and buy old Shawn a bigger brewery.

Callin’ him out!

SK: (Laughs) Exactly!

At the Great American Beer Fest this year , Barley Brown’s took home a couple of prestigious medals.

SK: In 2006 we won a gold medal for American Style Pale Ale for Tumble Off Pale. In ’09 we got a silver for American Style Wheat (Shredder Wheat) and a bronze for American Style Pale Ale with Tumble Off Pale Ale.

What do you think it was about this year that made the judges recognize your beers?

SK: I don’t know. It’s a lot of guess work as to why we were recognized this year and not in the past. But all of our beers did really well. We just got the judging notes back from (GABF) and all of our beers went to the later rounds. That was really cool. But I don’t know, it’s all a roll of the dice sometimes. There’s a lot of luck to play.

Do you ever feel more connected with the Idaho beer community than the Oregon beer community being that you are closer to Boise than Portland?

SK: At times I did. If you would have asked me a year ago today, probably yeah, I would have felt that way. But since December when Carl Singmaster (owner of Belmont Station) asked me to come to Belmont Station and sell our beer here…and I did. In March was the first time and in May we did our first meet the brewer…We were all geared toward Boise, but Portland was really nice in accepting us and for us, standing out in this kind of market is just a bigger blow to your ego. It’s really cool.

Last question: Are there any Oregon breweries out there better than Barley Brown’s?

SK: No. None whatsoever, and if Ettinger thinks he has a better brewery he can go fuck off. (Laughs)

If you’re heading east on the I-84, Barley Brown’s encourages you to stop by for some of the best beer available in the Pacific Northwest. the brewpub offers delicious food, a relaxed sociable environment, and access to a unique part of Oregon’s beautiful landscape you won’t  find west of the Cascades.

Posted under Beer personalities, Oregon beer